Creative Class: Kaz Edwards at Uchi
Houston foodies might be surprised to learn that the chef de cuisine at one of Houstonia’s top eateries is actually a Beaumont boy.
Kaz Edwards grew up on Golden Triangle crawfish boils and Pontchartrain-style fish frys but these days, he’s more likely to be creating delicacies like veal sweetbreads and pork jowl with brussels sprout kimchee. As chef de cuisine at Japanese restaurant Uchi, one of Houston’s top eateries, Edwards gets to constantly flex his haute cuisine muscle.
How did this Kelly grad end up at one of Texas’ hottest restaurants? He took a chance — a big one — by accepting an unpaid externship at Uchi while studying at Texas Culinary Academy. Now that Uchi has locations in Austin, Dallas and Houston, the rest is history — and Edwards remains one of the hottest items in Houston’s epic culinary scene.
If you want to catch this Southeast Texan in action, you’d better make a reservation way in advance — but we’ve heard from folks who waited upwards of two hours for a seat at Uchi that the wait is always worth it.
Here’s a little look at the bits of Beaumont that Edwards misses the most:
1. When you’ve been away from the Golden Triangle awhile, what do you hit up immediately upon your return?
My parents’ house. Usually when I go back to Beaumont, it’s to visit family and hang out with my mom and dad. My dad is always cooking breakfast, lunch and dinner. The last 10 times we visited, that’s what we did. I think the last place we went out was to Elena’s for a bite to eat and a margarita.
Also, I don’t know if anyone remembers this place, but if it was still open I would probably drive down once a week just to get a burger: It was called Betterburger, and it was amazing. When I was in eighth grade, my grandfather would bring me the “box,” which consisted of the best burger I’ve ever had, onion rings, french fries and Texas toast. I remember my friends would fight over my leftovers.
Still, to this day, I haven’t had a better burger.
2. The most essential tool in your kitchen?
My Gyutou. I know it’s probably the most common answer, but a sharp knife is essential — it makes all the difference.
You’re either cutting and slicing food or crushing and bruising it. Your knife is an extension of your hand, and it shows a lot as far as how you take care of it and respect it — which directly relates to what type of cook you are, and what type of chef you will be.
3. Your favorite Houston hole-in-the-wall right now?
One of my favorite places will always be la carafe, Houston’s oldest bar. It was the first place my wife, who grew up here, took me when we moved down from Austin.
4. Where was your hangout when you were growing up in Beaumont?
I loved going to Sartin’s. The barbecue crabs were amazing, and I still crave them from time to time.
5. What are you listening to right now?
So many ’80’s rock ballads, mixed with a little Hank Williams Jr. and UGK. I’m kinda all over the place. I’ll pretty much listen to anything, especially if it’s nostalgic.
6. When you’re in Beaumont and wanna grab a drink, where do you go?
I usually make margaritas or drink red wine at my parents’ house. Last time I went out in Beaumont was to the PaceSetter.
7. What’s your favorite recent discovery?
Sawagani — they are tiny Japanese river crabs and they are pretty delicious. I would say it’s more of a re-discovery.
We ran them on our menu about five or six years ago, then they stopped shipping them over. It wasn’t until recently we found them again and I have been playing around with a lot of different variations.
8. The chef who’s influenced your work the most?
When it comes to cooking from the heart, hands-down, a combination of my dad and my grandfather. I grew up seeing them both have a unique passion for it, and it’s where I get it from.
Right now I’m really digging Sean Brock. His passion for Southern food — truly highlighting it, while at the same time elevating it — is amazing. His new cookbook, “Heritage,” is beautiful.
9. What is your favorite indulgence?
Southern comfort food — fried chicken, creamed corn, mashed potatoes, chicken-fried steak, pickled or fried okra, that ranch dressing that’s slightly too thin but best for dipping your fries in, deviled eggs. I grew up eating it and absolutely love it. It’s one of those things that my grandparents always cooked, and nothing else I eat now really compares. When I find it and it’s good, I can’t get enough.
10. If you could pick any one piece of Beaumont to have in Houston, what would it be?
I really had to think about this question. I thought about all the places that try and bring aspects of other cities into their own, whether it’s style, attitude, scenic aspects, or whatever. It never is the same.
I love Beaumont, and I loved growing up there — I wouldn’t trade it for anything. Those memories and experiences, the people I grew up with and around, they made me the person I am today. There is always something nostalgic when I get to go home, something that brings me back to a different time and place. I wouldn’t want that to change and I wouldn’t want to try and bring it anywhere either — it just wouldn’t be the same.
Uchi
Where: 904 Westheimer Road, Houston
Info: (713) 522-4808; uchirestaurants.com
Hours: 5-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday & Saturday
beth@thecat5.com
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